JPFreek - Index

JPFreek - Spring 2008 - Index

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Text and photos by Jeff Haley
Mixed Mixed
In the fall when the temperatures are trying to get below zero in the
foothills of Colorado, the ice has no problem being hardened by the
sub freezing temperatures in the high country above 10,000 feet. In
most years the fall is one of the best seasons to climb ice routes due to
the minimal snow pack on the approach and solid forming ice up high.
In Rocky Mountain National Park there are several classic routes that are
in prime shape before Thanksgiving, such as All Mixed Up and the
Northeast Face of Notchtop peak. Two weekends before Thanksgiving
my friend Josh and I spent 3 days in the backcountry camping and
climbing both routes.
The trip began with an early morning drive to Estes Park from
Colorado Springs on a Friday morning, before the Denver rush hour
began. The sun had just risen over the eastern plains as we started up
Bear Lake Road in the national park toward the Bear Lake parking lot.
There we would begin our approach to the base of Notchtop Peak.
There was only one other car in the parking lot which gave us hope for
an uncrowned day on the route. Notchtop Peak is located just east of
Bear Lake above Odessa Lake and Lake Helene, along the Continental
Divide stretching north to south throughout the National Park. The
imposing northeast face of Notchtop rises steeply from the valley floor,
and six pitches of ice and snow climbing gets you to the summit on the
Continental Divide. After the four-mile approach, we arrived at the talus
slopes at the base of the route and started towards the first snowfield
below the first pitch.
It was approximately 10:30 as we started up the talus slopes,
negotiating bare rock with frozen patches of snow mixed in between
the boulders. The sun was shining and the wind was calm, offering
great conditions for a day of climbing. After an hour of the talus field,
we set foot on firm snow leading to the base of the first pitch. It was
Up Up
in in Colorado’s
Colorado’s
Rocky Rocky Mountains
Mountains