JPFreek - Index

JPFreek - Spring 2008 - Index

about noon by this point as Josh started to lead up the first pitch.
The first pitch consisted of WI2-3 ice with one short crux section
next to a chimney of bare rock. “WI” stands for waterfall ice and
the numerical rating is based on the steepness of the flow. WI2 is
fairly low angle but still requires the use of ice tools and
crampons to place into the ice for upward movement and foot
placement. Josh made quick time of it by placing a small cam for
protection in the rock and then pulling the final move up and
through the short chimney to the belay ledge above.
Throughout our climb, we used a combination of ice screws
and camping devices to protect the route from fall potential.
Cams are used in rock climbing which squeeze into tiny cracks
and expand to solidly hold the rope in case of a fall. A cam
basically looks like a mouth with a trigger attached to it that can
be pulled open and closed to place into a crack and then
expands to hold its placement. This alpine route consists of
several pitches of ice combined with a few pitches of steep snow
climbing in which we simulclimbed most of it. Simulclimbing is
basically a form of climbing in which both climbers are moving
at the same time with a rope tied into each other. If one climber
falls, the other climber can secure himself to the slope and arrest
the fall of the other with only few protection placements in
between.
As I followed behind Josh’s lead, I removed the screws and
cams and made my way up to the belay ledge. The ice was in
great shape by being not too brittle but not too soft so that the
tool would get stuck in the ice. As I found great placements for
the tools, it was easy to negotiate the crux move and arrive
above the first pitch. I volunteered to lead the second pitch
which consisted of low angle ice combined with steep snow that
involved front pointing with crampons for a short section. The
day was definitely getting into the afternoon by this point and
the temperatures were beginning to drop as I neared the second
belay ledge. Josh quickly followed my lead and we were setting
up for the 3rd pitch when we realized we could simply
simulclimb through a section of steep snow in order to gain the
belay anchors for the 4th pitch. At this time, all other parties
above us were ending the climb at the upper reaches of the face
which is mainly steep snow with little ice. Josh led the final ice
pitch which consisted of WI3 ice with great screw placements in
the solid ice.
Although the sun was definitely behind the ridge, we could see
there was still plenty of daylight left to finish the climb, so we
continued up to the snowfields at the top of the route. The final
pitches involved careful route finding to avoid avalanche prone
areas in the central part of the upper face. We took turns making
our way up the snow while I found the path of least resistance.
We were amazed at our route while looking down thousands of
feet to the valley floor and the frozen lake below us. As we
neared the top of the route we realized there is a final snow
bench that we must climb up and out of to gain the ridge and
stand on the summit. Josh led the final pitch up the ramp and
placed a small cam to protect a tricky area of solid snow with fall
potential. As he gained the ridge he yelled in excitement as we
saw the sun just setting out of view to the west. We quickly
packed the gear and began our descent via the Flattop Trail back