JPFreek - Index

JPFreek - Spring 2008 - Index

down to the car at Bear Lake. By the time we found the trail it
was completely dark with nothing but stars all around and the
city lights out to the east. What an amazing climb in an amazing
location. By the time we reached the car, we realized we had just
completed a 13 hour climb car to car.
The next day was spent resting and reorganizing the gear for
the hike into Glacier Gorge where we set up camp at the base of
All Mixed Up, a four pitch ice route on the east face of Thatchtop
Mountain above Mills Lake. We leisurely headed up the Mills Lake
trail into the gorge while stopping along the way to view the
route we would climb the next day. Several parties passed us on
the way out offering plenty of excitement over the conditions of
the route and the amount of ice that formed so early in the
season. Some had explained that this was the best condition
they had ever seen the route this early. By late afternoon, we had
found a great campsite in the trees right at the base of the
approach to the route which we scrambled up to gain our
bearings.
The approach to All Mixed Up is a steep climb through trees
and brush to gain the upper reaches of a headwall above Mills
Lake. Fortunately, there was a very low snow pack, so we didn’t
need any floatation in terms of snowshoes or skis. That night
camping wasn’t too cold, but the winds were howling through
the gorge, and it sounded as if we were camping at Denver
International Airport with jetliners flying over constantly. As I lay
in my bag trying to fall asleep, I kept thinking of stories about
trees falling on tents in the middle of the night crushing people
as they slept.
When the alarm sounded at 4:00 AM we awoke and grabbed
our packs in anticipation of the day ahead. We made it up the
approach and were gearing up at the base of the first pitch in
about an hour after we left camp. By then the sun was up and
the wind had subsided in time for a great climb. I volunteered to
lead the first pitch, consisting of WI2 ice for about 80 feet. There
was a substantial belay ledge formed from the steep ice above
where I quickly set up the anchor to belay up Josh.
By the time Josh made it to my position another party was just
beginning the second pitch which is the crux of the route. A
series of WI3 pillar mixed with a few WI4 moves carried on for
about 150 feet to the base of the third pitch. Josh did an
excellent job of leading the pitch and protecting the climb very
well with solid screw placements. As I pulled the belay and
began the climb I realized how fortunate we were to have such a
beautiful day for climbing. The wind was nonexistent and the
temperatures were relatively mild. I topped out the second pitch
and agreed with Josh that I would lead the third which was
mainly snow and low angle ice. I only placed one screw as I
made it to the base of the fourth and final pitch. By this time
several parties were on the route above and below us, which
had us waiting in line for the fourth pitch. By the time Josh made
it up to my position, the party above had just topped out,
leaving the beautiful WI4 flow ready for the taking. Josh led the