JPFreek - Index

JPFreek - magazine - Index

Tending to
the Garden
Text by Jeff Haley
Photos courtesy of Mountain Project and Jeff Haley, contributing editor
Although Colorado Springs, Colorado isn’t currently the Mecca of climbing within the state, there is a colorful history of legendary
climbers and amazing routes that exist in the Garden of the Gods Park, located within Colorado Springs. Many of the first climbers in
Colorado came by way of Colorado Springs, and many others began their climbing passion on the vertical sandstone walls of the
Garden within the city. Surprisingly enough, Garden of the Gods is simply a city park that was established during the early 1900’s
when the first pioneers and settlers were establishing the community. General Palmer, who founded present day Colorado Springs,
thought the Garden was such a magnificent place that it should be preserved throughout time as a “free” park for all to enjoy. Many
of the early climbers came to the Garden via Colorado College, a four year liberal arts college that was established in 1874.
The most notable of the climbers was Albert Ellingwood who came to Colorado College from England in 1914. Ellingwood brought
with him the climbing style that was being practiced in Europe at the time by using hemp ropes, metal pitons, and special shoes
used to ascend the rock. During his time in the Garden, he established many present day routes including Ellingwood’s Chimney on
Keyhole Rock. In addition to the Garden, Ellingwood established many routes throughout Colorado that remain classic test pieces
today for many aspiring climbers. The Garden was truly the start of rock climbing within the state, and many climbers following
Ellingwood’s technique and skill established many other great routes within the Garden.