JPFreek - Index

JPFreek - magazine - Index

Not Just the Garden Variety of Climbing
There are five different climbing areas within the Garden of the
Gods, identified by the different rock formations. These various
areas include: North Gateway Rock, South Gateway Rock,
Kindergarten/Gray Rock, The Spires, and Keyhole Rock. Each
area is similar yet unique in the composition and geology of the
sandstone. For example, Kindergarten Rock has a type of
sandstone that resembles limestone, while North Gateway Rock
contains the classic smooth, red-colored stone that most people
imagine when they hear about the Garden. Each formation
offers unique routes of various difficulties that provide excellent
opportunities for beginning climbers to seasoned “dirt bags.”
One of the unique qualities of the Garden is the area has such a
true history. Many routes contain remnants of the early climbers
in the form of pitons, anchor points, or even marks of paint
identifying the route. On a typical day in the Garden, you can be
scared out of your wits on a route while relying on a piton
placed in the 1950’s or move two routes down the wall and have
shiny new bolts that were placed as early as two years ago. The
Garden has something for everyone, and many guidebooks
exist for the Garden as well as online resources that discuss
current conditions of the routes and access issues.
North Gateway Rock
The largest and probably the most prominent formation
within the Garden is North Gateway Rock, characterized by the
classic “Kissing Camels,” a formation of rock that resembles two
camels kissing on top of a ridge. North Gateway is home to
many classic routes within the Garden such as Anaconda, a
5.11sport route that follows a nice crack system along the
northwest corner of the formation. Other great routes exist on
the west face of the rock. These climbs include Pete and Bob’s,
rated 5.11-, Place in the Sun, rated 5.8, and Men at Work, rated
5.11. Each of these are sport route climbs using a mix of old
pitons and new bolts that have replaced the sketchy pro. One of
the distinguishing characteristics of North Gateway Rock is the
large “Pigeon Holes” that exist along the face and provide
excellent climbing terrain. One of the more moderate routes on
North Gateway is the Finger Ramp, rated 5.7. The route ascends a
steep ramp full of finger-sized holes to give the climber just
enough balance while smearing with their feet. This route is
located along the southwest face of the formation adjacent to
the central area of the Garden. The main parking lot in the
Garden is the best way to access North Gateway by way of the
concrete sidewalk that leads to the central area of the Garden.
South Gateway Rock
South Gateway Rock has developed routes only along the
north and west faces of the formation. Nonetheless, many
famous and 4 star routes exist on these faces and attract many
climbers new to the Garden due to the various difficulties of
routes within a small area. The north face of South Gateway is
commonly referred to as the “Drug Wall” due to the names of the
routes.
Cocaine, rated 5.10d, is a classic Garden friction climb that
ascends the slabs by use of several drilled pitons. Another climb
is Candyman, rated 5.10d and certainly a short but interesting
climb. Other favorites at the Drug Wall include Mighty Thor, a
5.10b/c sport route with a nice crux section just before the
anchors, and Rocketfuel, a 5.11a/b route that follows several
bolts through slabby climbing to a pumpy upper section.