JPFreek - Index

JPFreek - magazine - Index

On the west face of South Gateway lies a few classic lines such as Kor’s Corner,
rated 5.12a/b, West Point Crack, rated 5.7, and Credibility Gap, a 5.9+ classic ascent
up a corner just south of West Point Crack.
South Gateway is the large formation to the south of North Gateway rock in the
central area of the Garden and can be accessed from the main parking lot.
Kindergarten Rock / Gray Rock
Directly south of South Gateway lies Kindergarten Rock, one of the most climbed
areas within the Garden and distinguished by its grey color and textured sandstone.
Kindergarten Rock holds many classic routes as well as fairly recent routes that have
been developed within the last twenty years. The west face of Kindergarten
contains a few classic trad lines such as Monster Crack, rated 5.8 and Scarecrow,
rated 5.10b. Both follow textured crack systems requiring traditional protection and
jamming techniques to gain the anchors.
On the east face of Kindergarten lies many fun and well protected routes such as
Diesel and Dust, a 5.11 face climb as well as Alligator Soup, a 5.9 face climb with
great protection. Beginning Trad climbers will not miss the 2-pitch New Era Crack, a
5.7 climb that is one of the Garden classics, established in the early fifties. This route
provides the beginning trad leader an excellent route with great protection options
and perfect holds on various crack systems. Most experienced climbers will want to
test their skill on Civil Disobedience, a 5.12 route with bouldering moves required to
reach the clips and anchors.
The easiest way to access Kindergarten Rock is from the south parking lot and
hiking north along the road to the base of the east face. There is a faint climber’s trail
that leads to the base of the east face and all the routes described above.
Twin Spires
Located in the direct center of the Garden and main tourist area are two spires
colored red and white. Only two sport routes exist on these spires: Potholes, a 5.7
route that follows large huecos or pigeon holes, and the West Face of the White
Spire, rated 5.8.
There are many other variations and routes that exist on the spires but must be top
roped after the anchors are gained by the other sport routes. The spires are a
popular area for tourists to gather and watch climbers make their way to the top.
Don’t be surprised if you end up in some Texan’s vacation video from their trip to
the Rocky Mountains.
The Twin Spires can be accessed from the main parking area and hiking to the
central area of the Garden in between North and South Gateway Rocks.