JPFreek - Index

JPFreek - magazine - Index

Keyhole Rock
Keyhole Rock is probably the least climbed of the many formations within the Garden; however, it
still offers a few routes of quality rock and feels like a more isolated and remote climbing experience.
Most of the routes are located along the east face of the rock, as the west face is less quality and not
worth climbing. Four sport routes exist along the east face: Martian Route, a 5.8 jaunt requiring
several balance moves to a 2 pin anchor; Ziggy Stardust, a 5.9+ route following several pins to an
anchor at the top of the ridge; and Water Gully, rated 5.7 along with Mission Impossible, rated 5.11,
both considered sport routes but not that great in quality.
The best way to access this area is to park in the South parking lot and hike north along the road to
the base of Kindergarten Rock, then travel west on a faint climbers trail to the Keyhole Rock.
These are the main climbing areas within the park but several other areas exist for the more
adventurous climber looking to find a remote test piece. As mentioned, many guidebooks can provide
more detailed and additional information regarding the climbing routes. All climbers must obtain a
climbing permit at the Visitors Center located on 30 th Street which is adjacent to the park. Rangers do
patrol the park and issue citations for not having climbing permits. Fines can be up to $500.00.
Climbing in the Garden can be an awesome experience when you consider the history of the area
combined with the various types of routes and difficulties. The Garden of the Gods is an amazing place
that is easily accessible by anyone, and offers beautiful scenery as well as hiking trails, mountain
biking, and horseback riding. So grab your climbing gear, a partner, and tend to the Garden.
Editor’s Note: Due to the technical aspects of rock climbing, many dangers are involved such as
falling rock or falling climbers. Consult an experienced guide service when rock climbing for the
first time, and use the appropriate safety equipment at all times. JPFreek Adventure Magazine
does not assume any liability or responsibility associated with your climbing experience.